A Belizean Holiday: Family, Flat Tires & Christmas in the Sun
#7
And so the movement continues.
Figuring out logistics to travel from a remote Bahamian island to Central America takes a little navigating—but I enjoy that part. The puzzle of how to get from one place to another, what connections work best, and how to make the most of it—it’s part of the adventure. Since Eleuthera is so remote, we needed to overnight in Nassau before flying to Belize through Miami. And once in Belize, another layer: catching the ferry to the small out island where we’d spend Christmas.
I’d timed our last five-day car rental in Eleuthera to line up with our flight since rideshares don’t exist there. It also gave us a chance to visit a few more beaches before leaving. But honestly? I was ready for the next leg. Having already spent two weeks in Nassau earlier in the trip, I knew my way around and booked us a resort-style hotel near the airport for convenience. Bonus: it had a gym. I also made another hair appointment with the same lovely young woman who colored my hair the last time—one of those small joys of travel I now plan for.
I’d found a great website that let me compare all one-way flight options—perfect for our travel style right now. For this leg, we needed to be in Belize on a specific day, so flexibility was limited. But planning ahead helped us get a good fare. These are the things you learn as you go—travel logistics become second nature the more you do them.
The man we rented the car from in Eleuthera told us to just leave the keys in the car. “I’ll find it,” he said—because really, how far can a car go on a tiny island? A short flight (larger than a puddle jumper) took us to Nassau, followed by a taxi to the hotel, a quick gym session for me, and then my hair appointment while Tim relaxed by the pool.
The next morning started early with a taxi to the airport, a flight to Miami, and then—Belize! We had to pass through customs at every stop, and I was starting to feel the weight of traveling with three bags. Tim had two and was already talking about consolidating for next time. I committed to whittling mine down to two. Belize had the longest lines out of all the countries we visited in terms of getting out of the airport and going through customs. It literally took us 2 hours to get through it all. Fortunately we had the time before catching the ferry.
Our first stop in Belize: Caye Caulker, a laid-back out island known for its remoteness and authenticity. I booked two rooms—one for Tim and me, and one for my older son who was flying in from college to join us for a week. Once we landed in Belize City, we caught the 45-minute ferry to the island arranged through our hotel. Everything was coordinated on WhatsApp—regular texting doesn’t cut it in most of these smaller countries. Since my son’s flight arrived later, Tim and I took the ferry over alone.
What struck me was seeing holiday decorations everywhere—on every island, in every airport—while it was sunny and warm. Christmas trees, lights, garlands... all with a tropical twist. I usually go all out with holiday decorating, baking, and shopping. But this year? It was so different. And freeing. There was no pressure to “do it all” just because that’s what I’d always done. I didn’t miss the stress of holiday traditions. For my son, I did keep one small tradition alive—we found a cozy Italian restaurant on the caye for our own version of the Feast of the Seven Fishes on Christmas Eve.
Our Belize itinerary:
5 nights on Caye Caulker
2 nights in Belize City
6 nights in Placencia (southern Belize, on the coast)
1 final night back in Belize City before flying out
My son would fly out on our second night in Belize City just as Tim’s son arrived, so we had a one-day overlap to be together. It gave each of them one-on-one time with us and also allowed for a special dinner all four of us could share.
Each place had its own feel, but what struck me most was the similarity in economic diversity. In Eleuthera, Nassau, and now Belize, I saw the same spectrum—some very wealthy, many doing just fine, and others barely getting by. I also saw hustle—locals starting small businesses, working hard, trying to make it. The people who succeeded? They were connected. I believe that’s everything. The more people connect, the more doors open. Our hotel on Caye Caulker connected us to a driver, who connected us to a fantastic day tour. And that’s one of Tim’s superpowers—connecting. It’s something I love watching him do.
Caye Caulker in a nutshell: Caribbean Sea views, bikes for getting around the 5-mile-long, 1-mile-wide island, and yes, some muddy roads after rainstorms. But we adapted quickly. My son and I swam with sharks and he rode his first jet ski (my second ever—my first was in Cabo with Tim). We celebrated Christmas Eve with Italian food, watched football on Christmas Day, and exchanged one simple gift. This island has mosquitos instead of no-see-ums, but I came prepared with bug spray and avoided too many bites. Early morning solo bike rides grounded me in a way that only quiet island mornings can.
From there, it was back to Belize City via ferry (and yes, I love being on the water—any boat, any time). We rented a car and checked into a small, comfortable hotel. Belize has its own currency, but we used credit cards where we could to avoid dealing with leftover cash. We took a day tour of the city and explored water caves which were absolutely stunning. That evening, Tim’s son arrived, and we all went out for a celebratory dinner. The next morning, my son flew home, and the rest of us hit the road for Placencia.
Driving in Belize is… an experience. Roads are mostly paved, but every town has massive speed bumps every quarter mile. The main highways are single-lane roads with bumps scattered throughout. It took us about three hours to drive south to Placencia—and we arrived intact with all tires and passengers accounted for.
Placencia is a mellow beach town with a reputation for expats although we didn’t see many. Our little hotel sat right on the water, and we loved stepping into the sea every day. The water wasn’t as blue as the Bahamas, but it was warm and inviting. We rode bikes into town, Tim and his son did a full-day snorkel trip, and we rang in the New Year at a beachfront restaurant near the hotel. Fireworks over the water and champagne to toast 2025—simple, but sweet.
The pace in Belize was much quicker than Eleuthera—mostly because we had family with us and wanted to see as much as we could. Still, Belize itself is incredibly relaxed, and the people are warm and gracious. That mix of movement and stillness is something I’m learning to ride.
On our drive back to Belize City to begin our next leg of the travel journey, we got a flat tire. What could’ve been a disaster became a moment of teamwork and quick thinking. We were still charged for the tire (even though it looked about 10 years old!), but hey—that’s travel. That’s life.
Belize was simple and lovely. A little chaotic, a little magical. It was less expensive than the Bahamas which was a welcome change. We kept drinking bottled water just in case. My highlight? The day tour in Belize City with the water caves—an unexpected gem. Our guide was amazing, the van was ours alone, and we soaked up the comfort and newness of it all.
Sure, there were money stressors and moments of family tension—what trip doesn’t have those? But we leaned in and kept appreciating what we had. I continue to see striations of wealth everywhere we go, but I also see the good in people—and I choose to focus on that.
Belize, for us, is a “one and done.” Beautiful, memorable, and complete.
It’s early January now. Tim’s son heads home.
And we’re off to the next destination.
Next stop: Costa Rica.
To your highest and best,
Dianna
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